An Inexpensive
LED Cold Light
By Andrew Entwistle
Fig. 1 An
inexpensive LED cold light based upon USB powered flexible
lights
Introduction
A few years ago,
inspired by Rudolf Baumueller’s
article I built a tungsten halogen fibre optic cold light (see
fig. 2 below). It is very effective, but I have found that the
fibre optic light guides are cumbersome to hold in position and
the fan noise can get a little wearing after a while. Recently I
noticed the availability of USB powered LED lights at the end of a
flexible gooseneck. I realised that the slim gooseneck would be
ideal for setting in a stable position and for getting light close
in towards an object under the microscope. I saw this type of
light on sale at a local ‘pound shop’ and saw an opportunity to
experiment with them, and built a battery-powered base to power
and support the lights. The total cost of the project was around
£15.
Fig. 2 Tungsten halogen fibre optic cold light. A dimmer
control is used in conjunction with a low voltage lighting
‘transformer’ (actually a switched mode power supply) to
drive the lamp via a temperature trip, in case of fan
failure.
Modification
of the USB LED
light
One may find that modification of these lights is not necessary,
depending upon their intended use. Despite these lights being
selected wholly on the basis of their extremely low cost, the
supplied white LED with diffuser is quite bright and has a wide
enough illumination angle to be adequate for low power stereo
work. However, I opted to remove the chromed barrel and to replace
it with heat-shrink sleeving to give better access to the object
illuminated. I also replaced the LED with a brighter, narrower
emission angle LED giving sufficient illumination for work with a
40X objective. There is also the option to use different colours
of LED.
Fig. 3 A USB
flexible LED light, available for £1 from ‘pound shops’
and for around £4 inc. P&P from eBay (May
06)
Referring to fig. 4 the stages of modification are as
follows.
-
Support the barrel in a vice and make a cut with a
fine-toothed junior hacksaw over the complete
circumference of the barrel, just short of breaking
through to the
gooseneck.
-
The aluminium barrel can now be snapped off and
removed.
-
Make a cut along the length of the remaining ring of
aluminium, again without breaking through to the
gooseneck, then using a pair of side-cutters or pliers
remove the weakened
ring.
-
The LED and possibly the series resistor may now be
replaced. If the heat-shrink sleeving available is large
enough to clear the flange of the LED there is no need to
remove the flange as is
shown.
-
Coat the gap between the gooseneck and the LED with hot
melt glue as shown, or alternatively use insulation tape
or another type of potting compound or
glue.
-
Cover the last 15mm or so of the gooseneck with heatshrink
sleeving up to and beyond the LED, then trim off the
excess after
shrinking.
Fig. 4 The
stages in modifying the LED light to have a slimmer
profile and possibly an alternative
LED
A Nichia 8000mCd white 5mm LED (N29AT from Maplin) was used to
replace the original LED. A series resistor of 47ohms was
selected to limit the current to the LED to its rated maximum
of 30mA when used with a 5v USB computer supply. This also
made it suitable for use with 4.8v from 4 x 1.2v NiMH
rechargeable batteries. This choice does mean that use with 4
x 1.5v primary cells is prohibited, although 3 x 1.5v could be
used with or without a more optimum resistor value. For other
power supply options there are a number of Micscape articles
covering the use of LEDs, for example, using a variable
resistor to adjust the brightness. I prefer the simplicity of
running the LED at maximum output which then produces a
consistent colour temperature; the intensity to the viewer can
be adjusted by altering the distance and angle of the light.
The Nichia 8000mCd was later replaced with a 25000mCd white
LED from
www.besthongkong.com
and a second assembly
was made using a 395nm near-UV LED from the same
source.
Construction
of the powered
base
Refer to figures 5 & 6. A rectangular hole was made at
each end of the enclosure so that two USB type A PCB mounting
sockets could be glued securely to the side walls of the
enclosure with two part epoxy. The inside surface of the box
was scored with a knife to provide a good key for the epoxy.
The USB LED lights were plugged into the sockets before
gluing, to reduce the amount of glue entering the connector,
and to hold it in place. It took a degree of force to remove
the USB LED light connector after gluing and some trimming of
the excess glue inside the socket was required to allow the
plugs to connect and disconnect smoothly. A 4xAA battery
holder was used to hold four NiMH rechargeable cells which
were wired to the USB sockets in series with switches. The
connections to the type A USB sockets are shown in figure 6.
With the weight of the batteries the base is just about stable
enough to support the two USB lights in any orientation, but I
added a 10mm thick aluminium plate underneath the enclosure to
improve the stability. The bottom of the plastic enclosure was
glued to the aluminium plate, which was drilled and tapped to
accept two knurled headed screws to enable tool-free battery
changes. Four self-adhesive rubber feet were applied to the
base of the
plate.
Fig. 5 USB
type A socket (viewed from mating
side).
Fig. 6 The
layout of the internal
components
Results using flexible gooseneck LED
lighting
The
flexible gooseneck LED lights were tried with both stereo and compound
microscopes. The beam diameter is wide enough to provide even
illumination over the whole field of view at powers above 2x, using just
one light. Using both lights provides flexibility in removing shadows. Figure 7
shows the lights in use with a stereo microscope and
figure 8 shows results when used with a compound microscope. Figure 9 shows the
relative brightness of the 25000mCd LED (left)
compared the 8000mCd LED and also some fluorescence of the patterns below
the hologram on a £20 note using the 395nm near-UV
LED. The 'denomination' text on £5, £10 and £20 notes is designed to fluoresce
red and green under 365nm, but this effect was not visible using 395nm. The
25000mCd is my preferred LED for illumination but the beam pattern does include
some more yellow and blue patches which may not be ideal for viewing a
plain object.
Fig. 7 LED illumination used with a stereo
microscope
Fig. 8 The pits of a CD viewed through a 40x objective, an
AD549 OP-AMP die and a foram strew through a 2.5X
objective.
Fig. 9
Comparison of 25000mCd white LED (left) with 8000mCd LED & flourescence of
£20 note printing under 395nm near-UV
illumination.
All comments to the
author
Andrew
Entwistle
are
welcomed.
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